摘要
Abstract
The effects of base materials in cosmetics on whitening efficacy of a - arbutin were investigated by establishing a tyrosinase catalyzed reaction system. The results showed that there were inhibition effect on the mushroom tyrosinase by the surfactants (Tween 80, AES, AEO, ) , moisturizer ( glycerin ) , and preservative ( methyl 4 - hydroxybenzoate), and the inhibition effect of each of them incorporated with a - arbutin showed an conjugated inhibition action on tyrosinase. Metal ions ( Cu2+ and/or Mg2+ ) , showed activation effect on tyrosinase and the activation capacity of Cu2+ was far higher than that of Mg2+ ,about 75 times. The effects of base materials in cosmetics on stability of a - arbutin were studied by HPLC via the detection of the content of hydroquinone formed by the decomposition of a - arbutin. The results showed that a - arbutin performed good stabilities in the solution of the surfactants (Tween 80, AES, AEO9), moisturizer ( glycerin) and the metal ions ( Cu2+ , Mg2+ ) because of no hydroquinone was formed; but it proved that stability of a - arbutin in methyl 4 -hydroxybenzoate solution was not good since the content of hydroquinone achieved 4.45%.关键词
α-熊果苷/美白功效/稳定性/表面活性剂/保湿剂Key words
a -arbutin/whitening efficacy/stability/surfactants/moisturizer分类
化学工程
