海洋科学2017，Vol.41Issue(2)：12-19,8.DOI:10.11759/hykx20160313001
珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究
Experimental study of wave transformation and wave-driven current around the surf zone over coral reefs
摘要
Abstract
To investigate the wave transformation and wave-driven current around the surf zone over fringing reefs, a series of laboratory experiments are performed in a wave flume to measure the cross-reef water lever and flow in de-tails. Experimental results are reported for two reef profiles with and without the reef crest under a typical plunging breaker condition. Data analysis shows that partial standing waves across the reef are formed due to multiple wave reflection, and higher harmonics around the surf zone are generated through wave shoaling. The energy dissipation in the surf zone results primarily from the dissipation of fundamental harmonics, and the resultant second harmonic waves are comparable to the fundamental harmonics on the reef flat. The presence of the reef crest reduces the surf zone width, increases the wave-induced setup, and decreases the harmonic wave amplitudes on the reef flat. The variation of the wave-driven current across the fringing reef without the reef crest is similar to that for the plane beaches. The existence of the reef crest causes the retention of the mean-flow on the leeside of the crest to some extent.关键词
高次谐波/波生流/破碎带/珊瑚岸礁Key words
higher harmonic waves/wave-driven current/surf zone/fringing reef分类
建筑与水利引用本文复制引用
姚宇,唐政江,杜睿超,蒋昌波..珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究[J].海洋科学,2017,41(2):12-19,8.基金项目
国家自然科学基金资助项目(51309035, 51239001) （51309035, 51239001）
水文水资源与水利工程科学国家重点实验室开放研究基金(2014491011) （2014491011）
高等学校博士学科点科研基金新教师类(20134316120004) National Natural Science Foundation of China, No.51309035, No.51239001 （20134316120004）
the Open Foundation of State Key Laboratory of Hydrol-ogy-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering, No.2014491011 （）
the Specialized Research Fund for the Doctoral Program of Higher Education, No.20134316120004 （）
