印染助剂2017，Vol.34Issue(8)：9-14,6.
古代茶叶染色的试验研究(待续)
Experimental study on ancient tea dyeing (to be continued)
摘要
Abstract
The experimental research of tea dyeing was designed and carried out based on the historical literature of ancient tea dyeing. According to the results of experiment and tea chemical theory, combined with historical literature analysis, the tea types, dyeing processes, colouring tendencies and dyeing mechanism in ancient tea dyeing were investigated. The conclusions are as follows. (1) Direct dyeing, one bath mordant dyeing and post-mordant dyeing are the methods for tea dyeing in ancient times. The colour brown can be obtained by direct dyeing; the colour black by one bath mordant dyeing with green copperas as the mordant;while lotus-seed-brown and brick-brown by post-mordant dyeing with green copperas and iron slurry as mordant, respectively. (2) The colour of direct dyeing varies with the type of tea and fabric. Reddish colour is dyed by the black tea, yellowish by the green tea, colours in between by oolong tea. The cellulose fiber is dyed dull yellow (L=80~81, a=7~10, b=35~37) with green tea, which is similar to the colour of old paper of many years, and brown like purple cotton (L=63~64, a=10~12, b=25~30) with black tea, respectively. (3) The old tea used in lotus-seed-brown dyeing method recorded in "Mo E Xiao Lu" is aging green tea. The dark bluish violet, i.e. dark purplish-brown or lotus-seed-brown (L=51, a=6, b=20) is obtained by dyeing with black soya bean shells and green copperas. Brick-brown archived in Yuan dynasty's "Ju Jia Bi Yong Shi Lei Quan Ji"and Ming synasty's "Duo Neng Bi Shi" refers to the blue grey with lower purity, which is light bluish brown (L=44~49, a=-1~0, b=-9~-11). The dyeing method is to boil a fabric in black tea or green tea liquor, and then pad the fabric with iron slurry in slightly boiling state. (4) The combination between tea polyphenol with protein or polysaccharide, and the oxidation polymerization of tea polyphenol are the basic principles of tea direct dyeing. As the pigments i.e. theaflavin, thearubigin and theabrownine in tea also have dyeing function, moreover,the various tea have different contents of tea polyphenol and pigments, the capacity and fastness of combination between tea polyphenols and protein or polysaccharide are also different. Thus, the final dyeing colour is the mixture of reddish brown with other colours, which macroscopically are viewed as different browns. (5) The principle of both black and brown dyeing is that the complexation of tea polyphenol with ferric ion, which result black blue, and it will further be mixed with the colour of theaflavin, thearubigin and theabrownine.The black can be dyed by long time boiling dyeing with water soluble green copperas as the mordant.The lotus-seed-brown uses the same mordant, so it is dyed dark. However, the mordant of brick-brown, i.e., iron slurry, results in the limited ferric ions, which are directly responsible for the alleviated mordanting reaction ended with the light shade.关键词
茶叶/染色/媒染/茶多酚/茶单宁Key words
tea/dyeing/mordant dyeing/tea polyphenol/tea tannin分类
化学化工引用本文复制引用
李维贤..古代茶叶染色的试验研究(待续)[J].印染助剂,2017,34(8):9-14,6.基金项目
国家留学基金项目(留金法〔2016〕5113号-201608440430) （留金法〔2016〕5113号-201608440430）
广东省哲学社会科学规划项目(GD16DL08) （GD16DL08）
