丝绸2023，Vol.60Issue(12)：99-105,7.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2023.12.013
云南普洱佤族织锦传统工艺分析
Traditional technology analysis of brocade of Pu'er Wa ethnic group in Yunnan
摘要
Abstract
Wa brocade,as one of the outstanding ethnic traditional brocades in China,has distinct characteristic of ethnic minority culture.The Wa brocade weaving technique is mainly passed down from hand to hand,lacking specific written information.With the inclusion of the Wa brocade weaving technique in the list of representative items of national intangible cultural heritage,the task of protecting the Wa brocade weaving is imminent.To better inherit the traditional Wa brocade weaving skills and excellent culture and to promote the development of Wa brocade weaving,a series of studies were conducted on the basis of field research in Pu'er,southwest China's Yunnan province. Through field investigation and research in the Wa gathering places,it is found that Wa brocade can be divided into three categories according to raw materials:cotton brocade,hemp brocade and mixed brocade,and the research focused on the entire textile process of cotton brocade,from planting,picking,ginning,bouncing,spindle-rolling,spinning,guiding,sizing,warping,loading,post-processing to the finished product.It is found that the raw materials of dyes used in Wa brocade mainly come from plants and animals and minerals,and there are color preferences of the Wa people and each color has its symbolism.As for the sources of dyes for the commonly used colors of the Wa people,the black color mainly comes from the fruits and roots of the acacia,the red color mainly comes from the violet gum of the violet gum worm's parasitized tree,the yellow color mainly comes from the yellow flower and the yellow soil,and the blue color mainly comes from the blue indigo grass.The preparation process of commonly used dyes mainly involves immersion,fermentation,precipitation and filtration,and the dyeing process of yam mainly consists of pre-treatment,immersion,steaming,dewatering and finishing with color.It is found that the loom used for Wa brocade weaving is the waist loom,which consists of tools such as warp beams,spreading rods,warping rods,heddle rods,beating-up knives,shuttles,cloth winding shafts,and belt.It is also found that there are two kinds of looms for Wa brocade weaving:plain weaving and jacquard weaving,and that both weaving methods can be completed by the four-step cycle of"1 weaving plain weave,2 weaving jacquard weave(weaving plain weave),3 weaving plain weave,and 4 weaving jacquard weave(weaving plain weave)".Wa brocade patterns are rich,among which animal patterns,plant patterns and geometric patterns are quite common.It is found through the study of the sources and meanings of the representative patterns that the Wa people believe in the religious concept of"Animism". On this basis,we analyzed the Wa brocade purchased locally and conducted replication experiments on a small prototype machine,with a view to realizing the large-scale production of Wa brocade and expanding the market demand for Wa brocade,so as to better inherit and protect it.The Wa brocade weaving is the crystallization of the wisdom of the Wa people,and the love of life and the expectation of living in harmony with nature can be seen in all aspects of Wa brocade weaving.This study will provide strategic support for the protection and inheritance of Wa brocade weaving.关键词
佤族织锦/染料/织造工艺/织机/纹样/复制实验Key words
Wa brocade/dye/weaving technology/loom/dermatoglyphic pattern/replication experiments分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
贺圣达,苏淼,龙博,安薇竹,徐诺,鲁佳亮..云南普洱佤族织锦传统工艺分析[J].丝绸,2023,60(12):99-105,7.基金项目
国家重点研发计划课题项目(2019YFC1521301) （2019YFC1521301）
国家社会科学基金项目(19CKG023) （19CKG023）
