丝绸2023，Vol.60Issue(12)：128-136,9.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2023.12.016
文化交融视野下的蒙元女子大袖袍研究
Study on women's large-sleeved robes in the Mongolian-Yuan Dynasty from the perspective of cultural blending
摘要
Abstract
In the 13th century,the Mongols established a huge empire across the Eurasian continent,where a variety of cultures enriched each other,and the material and cultural exchanges between various ethnic groups were unprecedentedly thriving,and the clothing that reflected the style of social life was significantly affected.The long-sleeved robe worn by Mongolian women is the product of multi-culture integration.Therefore,it is of great value to analyze the shape characteristics of the large-sleeved robe and the cultural connotation behind it for the study of Mongolian national characteristic costumes and the characteristics of multi-culture integration and mutual learning in the 13th and 14th centuries. Using the research method of mutual confirmation of ancient documents,image data and physical specimens,we analyzed and studied the clothing grade,shape origin and cultural connotation of women's large-sleeved robes in the Mongolian-Yuan era from the perspective of cultural integration,and drew four important conclusions.First,the main material of the Mongolian-Yuan women's large-sleeved robe was gold brocade,which was the result of the aesthetic influence of Central and West Asia.The use of Nashi on the large-sleeved robe was one of the examples of the material cultural exchange between the East and the West in the Mongolian-Yuan era.Second,the large-sleeved robes worn by Mongolian women had no difference in shape and form regardless of their status.It was the materials that were used to"distinguish the rank and status".Specifically,they were distinguished by the combination of collar and sleeve materials and robe materials.Third,the large-sleeved robe had varied the shape and system features,combining the wide Tuanshan in the Liao and Jin Dynasties and the wide sleeve of Daxiu(Big Sleeve)in the Southern Song,and was the product of the interaction and integration of farming culture,fishing and hunting culture and nomadic culture.The wide and broad characteristics of the clothing corners confirmed that the traditional Chinese costume culture has a long history.Fourth,although large-sleeved robes have absorbed the results of foreign cultures in clothing materials and shapes,they have profound connotations of Mongolian traditional clothing culture and distinct cultural uniqueness,which enriches the beautiful and diverse traditional costume art of the Chinese nation. Clothing is composed of three basic elements:material,shape and color.It is a cultural complex reflecting social style and humanistic spirit.We systematically analyze the combination and collocation of large-sleeved robe collars,cuff corners and body materials,deeply explore the form and system origin,and explain the unique historical value of Mongolian clothing,providing a new perspective for inheriting the diversified and integrated Chinese traditional clothing culture.We discuss the functional and aesthetic properties of the material and shape of the large-sleeved robe,but its visual elements such as color and pattern and its cultural connotation need to be further analyzed and studied,so as to see the clear,three-dimensional and comprehensive image of the large-sleeved robe.关键词
蒙元时期/蒙古女性/大袖袍/服饰制度/形制与内涵/文化交融Key words
Mongolian-Yuan era/Mongolian women/large-sleeved robes/clothing system/shape and connotation/cultural integration分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
周成飞,贺阳..文化交融视野下的蒙元女子大袖袍研究[J].丝绸,2023,60(12):128-136,9.基金项目
北京服装学院中国传统服饰文化的抢救传承与设计创新人才培养项目(NHFZ20230010) （NHFZ20230010）
北京市教育委员会社会科学计划一般项目(SA20231001200) （SA20231001200）
北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆打造铸牢中华民族共同体意识教育实践基地项目(120205000502) （120205000502）
