纺织高校基础科学学报2024，Vol.37Issue(2)：126-131,6.DOI:10.13338/j.issn.1006-8341.2024.02.014
新疆和田艾德莱斯工艺与传承再研究
Restudy of Aidelaisi technology and heritage
摘要
Abstract
The study of Hetian Aidelaisi crafts in Xinjiang Uygur is mostly operated with the Wig interpretation of viewing,and copying and imitation are often confused,leading to the modernization of the operational crafts and the absence of scientific representations of the traditional crafts,and inevitably the crisis of inheritance.Through literature review,video collection and drawing points,field investigation and other research methods,this paper systematically summarizes the produc-tion process,principles and techniques of Aidelaisi,in order to make some contributions to the inheritance and protection of this intangible cultural heritage.Analysis indicate that Aidelaisi silk woven with mulberry silk as raw material,uses the traditional reeling method to clarify the thread of the cocoon silk,and makes the single cocoon silk has enough strength to do Aidelaisi silk meridian and latitude.The dyes of Aidelaisi silk are taken from the roots,stems,leaves,flowers and fruit shells of plants and minerals.According to the requirements of the pattern,tie the warp thread with corn skin on the silk thread for tie-dye.Aidelaisi silk is woven using a traditional wood plain loom,The structure of the loom has some similarities with the ordinary folk loom in Xinjiang,just a more pedal brown.The loom fuselage frame is mainly built as a buckle,six brown and a scroll,a shuttle and six pedals.Reed and brown are made of bamboo and steel sheet respectively.关键词
艾德莱斯/新疆维吾尔族/扎经染色/织造技艺Key words
Aidelaisi/Xinjiang Uygur/warp tie dyeing/weaving techniques分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
哈力米热·依明,李强,夏克尔·赛塔尔..新疆和田艾德莱斯工艺与传承再研究[J].纺织高校基础科学学报,2024,37(2):126-131,6.基金项目
教育部人文社会科学研究规划项目(21YJA760032) （21YJA760032）
