摘要
Abstract
According to the"Evaluation Specification for Cosmetic Efficacy Claims",the results of laboratory tests can be used to support multiple types of cosmetic efficacy claims,including anti-wrinkle,firming,soothing,oil control,exfoliating,anti-hair breakage,dandruff removal,moisturizing,hair care,raw material efficacy,and declared mild(non irritating),and quantitative indicators.The laboratory tests are different from the actual usage status of the product,and their appeal to consumers are far less than that of human research.They also have the advantages of good repeatability,simple,low cost,et al.Laboratory tests include physicochemical(biochemical)tests,cell tests,skin model tests and animal tests,et al.Although it may be difficult to accurately extrapolate the effects of physicochemical methods to the actual use of the human body,they are widely used now.Through testing the inhibitory effect of cosmetics in matrix metalloproteinase,elastase and nonenzymatic glycosylation reaction,or the scavenging ability of cosmetics in free radicals,the anti-wrinkle efficacy of the product can be evaluated.Through testing the inhibitory effect of cosmetics in hyaluronidase,or the scavenging ability of cosmetics in free radicasl,the soothing efficacy of the product can be evaluated.Through testing the moisture absorption and moisturizing rate of cosmetics,the soothing and moisturizing efficacy of the product can be evaluated.Some research also show that there is a certain positive correlation between the moisturizing rate of physicochemical testing methods and human research.Through testing the ability of waterproof and anti-sweat,the hold on efficacy of makeup can be evaluated.At present,there are various physicochemical methods for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics widely used,but many methods lack standard specifications and guidance.The existing group standards have certain shortcomings or limitations,leading to some problems in practical application.For example,the claims of some efficacies lack appropriate physicochemical testing methods,the same test indicator corresponds to multiple efficacy claims,some standards are not applicable to certain products and need to be improved in sample pre-treatment and result analysis,and the test results can not support the efficacy claims scientifically.In the future,it is recommended to strengthen the standardization of physicochemical test methods,improve the standardized system for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics,and to promote the development of the cosmetics industry.关键词
化妆品/功效/理化试验方法/现状/护肤Key words
cosmetics/efficacy/physical and chemical testing methods/current situation/skin care分类
化学化工
