现代纺织技术2025，Vol.33Issue(3)：58-69,12.DOI:10.19398/j.att.202405034
仿真丝织物经纬密优化设计模型的构建
Construction of an optimization design model for the warp and weft density of silk-like fabrics
摘要
Abstract
The traditional method of developing silk-like fabrics is the reference method or the trial weaving method.When determining the warp and weft density of the fabric,it is necessary to continuously compare and analyze and try weaving on the machine,which is cumbersome and wastes raw materials.With the rapid development of the silk industry,higher requirements have been put forward for the development and production efficiency of silk products,and the production cost control is more stringent. Through the analysis of the calculation method of the on-machine parameters of the silk fabric,it is found that there are few empirical regression methods and theoretical calculation methods,and the warp and weft density of the fabric is closely related to the tightness of the fabric and the fabric structure.Through the analysis of fabric style and performance influencing factors,it is found that tightness,weave structure,warp and weft density have significant effects on many properties and styles of fabrics.Therefore,the fabric tightness model and the fabric structure model can be used as a breakthrough,and the related parameters of the two models are:tightness,fabric tightness coefficient,fabric density conversion coefficient and fabric tightness index.Combined with the empirical equations of the actual maximum on-machine density of silk-like fabrics,a set of on-machine warp and weft density design models suitable for the actual development of silk-like fabrics can be constructed.Galuszynski proposed that fabrics with the same tightness coefficient have some of the same or very similar mechanical properties.Taking the tightness coefficient proposed by Galuszynski as a fixed value,combined with the ratio of warp density to weft density,the maximum on-machine warp and weft density of the silk-like fabric can be calculated,which can ensure that the silk-like fabric achieves both cost control and similar style and performance to silk fabric.To meet the diversity of fabric development,the density conversion of different fabric structures can be carried out through the tissue density conversion coefficient of fabric structure after developing a textile that is very similar to the silk-style fabric,so as to develop different series of products.Through the analysis of the fabric structure model,a new tissue density conversion coefficient is reasoned and corrected,and the fabric structure is subjected to more detailed density conversion,so that the results calculated by the model are more accurate and practical.Then,the tightness index,the most comprehensive and integrated index that can reflect the tightness of the fabric,is used to theoretically verify the example of the silk fabric.Combined with this example,the optimization design practice of the warp and weft density of the silk-like fabric on the machine is carried out to verify the application value of the model.The results show that the theoretical formula can calculate the tightness coefficient,the maximum on-machine warp and weft density and the issue density conversion coefficient of the silk fabric,which provides a theoretical formula for the optimal design of on-machine density of the silk fabric. The model can accurately design the on-machine warp and weft density of the silk-like fabric with different raw materials,different structures and different structural phases.It can be widely used in polyester,nylon and various rayon fiber fabrics.关键词
仿真丝织物/经纬密度/优化设计/紧度/模型Key words
silk-like fabrics/warp and weft density/optimization design/tightness/model分类
轻工业引用本文复制引用
肖康情,周赳..仿真丝织物经纬密优化设计模型的构建[J].现代纺织技术,2025,33(3):58-69,12.基金项目
浙理工嵊州研究院成果培育项目(SYY2024C000007) （SYY2024C000007）
