纺织高校基础科学学报2025，Vol.38Issue(2)：116-124,9.DOI:10.13338/j.issn.1006-8341.2025.02.013
宋代褙子的源流与流变考析
Analysis of the origin and evolution of Beizi in the Song dynasty
摘要
Abstract
The existing research on the origin and evolution of Beizi mainly focuses on documentary textual research,and lacks the multi-dimensional verification of the reasons for its origin and evo-lution.Aiming at the problem,we conducted an in-depth study on the origin and evolution of Be-izi in the Song dynasty and its internal causes by a three-dimension verification method,including documentary research,cultural relics archaeology,and image information.The research findings are as follows:1)The formation and changes of Beizi are jointly influenced by culture and fashion.With its design based on the styles of Zhongdan(underrobe)and Banbi(half-sleeved jacket),Beizi integrates the popular trend of wearing underwear outside,and finally evolves to meet the aesthetic needs of the Song dynasty.2)Deeply influenced by Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism and feudal ethics,its styles tend to be restrained and narrow.The female Beizi experienced a transformation from a loose style in the Northern Song dynasty to a slim style in the Southern Song dynasty,with rich changes in sleeve shapes,including wide sleeves,flared narrow sleeves,and tapered narrow sleeves.3)The male Beizi had diverse changes in collar styles,mainly including three styles:oblique collar,disc col-lar and joint collar,reflecting the diversified needs of male clothing in the Song dynasty.4)The popularity of Taoism further strengthens the connection between the Beizi and Taoist costumes,making the Beizi gradually adapt to social needs,becoming an orthodox clothing and an important symbol carrying cultural and social concepts.关键词
褙子/宋代/源流/流变Key words
Beizi/Song dynasty/origin/evolution分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
朱家雨,刘安定,朱翠云..宋代褙子的源流与流变考析[J].纺织高校基础科学学报,2025,38(2):116-124,9.基金项目
湖北省教育厅哲学社会科学研究项目(22Y073) （22Y073）
