丝绸2025，Vol.62Issue(9)：43-51,9.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2025.09.005
再生涤纶与原生涤纶纤维染色差异性研究
A study on the differences of dyeing between regenerative and virgin polyester fibers
摘要
Abstract
Polyester boasts high strength,excellent elasticity,wear resistance,low density,good warmth,chemical corrosion resistance,as well as resistance to mildew and insect damage,making it durable and cost-effective.These advantages have secured its significant market share in the textile industry.Due to the high stability of its chemical groups,polyester exhibits strong chemical inertness,making it resistant to degradation under natural conditions.This leads to the accumulation of polyester waste and associated environmental pollution issues.With the increase in the production and sales of polyester,the amount of waste polyester discharged into nature has increased rapidly,which has a great impact on the environment.With the growing call for a green economy,the world has entered the era of circular economy.In this context,people's demand for eco-textiles is growing,and regenerative polyester has emerged.Regenerative polyester and virgin polyester have similar performance.However,in the actual production process,when the same dyeing process is used,the dyeing effect of regenerative polyester is very different from that of virgin polyester.This seriously affects the production,application and promotion of regenerative polyester. To reveal reasons for the differences in the dyeing effect between virgin polyester and regenerative polyester,we characterized the molecular structure,elemental composition,and thermal properties of virgin and regenerative polyester by FTIR,DSC,TGA,X-ray diffraction,and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy.We empoyed three-factor three-level orthogonal experiments to obtain the factors that have a greater impact on the color depth of fabric dyeing.The three factors are the dyeing temperature(T),the holding time(t),and the type of leveling agent.And each factor is set at three levels:high,medium,and low.We also used conducted factor experiments to study the effects of dyeing temperature and dyeing time on the dyeing effect of regenerative and virgin polyester.Furthermore,we measured the K/S value of the fabric at different dyeing time intervals to obtain the dyeing rate of the dye. In this paper,the reasons for the differences in dyeing effect between regenerative polyester and virgin polyester were revealed from the perspectives of molecular structure,element composition,glass transition temperature(Tg),melting temperature(Tm),fiber aggregate structure,crystallinity,crystal size,and amorphous segment movement. The experimental results show that the molten enthalpy,the ratio of carbon and nitrogen and the hydrophilicity of regenerative polyester are higher than those of virgin polyester,while the crystallinity is lower than that of virgin polyester.Therefore,it is speculated that the difference between the two fibers is caused by the residual N element,crystallization difference and high hydrophilicity caused by the impurity removal in the production process of regenerative polyester.Through orthogonal experiments,the factors influencing the dyeing of regenerative polyester fibers were investigated.The results revealed that temperature is the most critical factor determining fabric color depth(K/S value),while holding time and the type of leveling agent exhibit negligible effects on the fabric.The influence of dyeing temperature and holding time on fabric dyeing performance was investigated using a single-factor experimental approach.Results demonstrated that the K/S value of the fabric increases with the increase of dyeing temperature,and the longer the holding time of the dyeing process,the better the leveling property of the fabric.The optimal dyeing process parameters for regenative polyester fibers were determined as follows:dyeing temperature of 130℃ and holding time of 40 minutes. Regenative polyester exhibits comparable wear performance to virgin polyester.Identifying the causes of dyeing differences between regenative and virgin polyester is crucial for optimizing dyeing processes,enhancing product quality,promoting the application of regenative polyester,and advancing the sustainable development of the polyester industry.关键词
再生涤纶/原生涤纶/染色差异/染色性能/K/S值/染深性/匀染性Key words
regenerative polyester/virgin polyester/dyeing differences/dyeing property/K/S value/dyeing depth/leveling分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
朱雅静,邓月柳,许长海,杜金梅,李善彬..再生涤纶与原生涤纶纤维染色差异性研究[J].丝绸,2025,62(9):43-51,9.基金项目
国家重点研发计划资助(2021YFB3801900) （2021YFB3801900）
