丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(1)：1-8,8.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.01.001
现代服装与性别塑造
Modern clothing and gender construction
摘要
Abstract
Clothing is one of the most salient markers of gender identity.From a sociological perspective,the historical interplay between gender and clothing has been dynamic and continually evolving.This lens reveals how gender roles are both articulated and contested through clothing.The relationship is complex and deeply embedded in cultural,social,and historical contexts.This paper examines the formation of gender-differentiated clothing in modern Western society,emphasizing how gender norms shape sartorial choices and how those choices,in turn,help constitute gender identity. Gender and clothing have long been closely connected,with clothing serving as a powerful medium for expressing and perpetuating societal expectations about gender roles and identities.Across cultures and historical periods,clothing has functioned as a visual marker of gender differentiation,employing specific sartorial codes to demarcate masculine and feminine ideals that have traditionally reinforced binary norms.Yet this relationship is not static;it changes in response to shifting social attitudes,evolving understandings of gender roles,and the politics of identity.The dynamic interplay is evident in contemporary society—from fashion trends that challenge gender binaries to consumer behavior reflecting gender fluidity and political statements communicated through clothing.This evolving relationship creates a space in which gender norms are continually questioned,reinterpreted,and subverted,making fashion one of the most visible arenas for negotiating gender identity in modern culture. Since the 14th century,men's fashion has undergone substantial change,moving from elaborately decorative styles to the streamlined and functional designs of contemporary menswear—a shift that reflects broader social transformations.During the 18th and 19th centuries,particularly with industrialization,men's attire became increasingly refined.The emergence of the three-piece suit marked a watershed,establishing the basis of men's formalwear—a status it retains today.Contemporary menswear defines and reinforces modern masculine aesthetics that emphasizes practicality,naturalness,simplicity,and understated elegance.These sartorial values mirror changing social expectations:the idealized modern man is imagined as proactive,productive,straightforward,and restrained.Such ideals are materially realized through the precise engineering of garments—the careful calibration of structure,proportion,and tailoring—which highlights masculine physical attributes and visually communicates confidence,competence,and authority.Ultimately,modern menswear reflects and reinforces men's roles as active agents in social and professional spheres. Women's fashion modernized later than men's fashion.While following broader trends toward simplicity and functionality,women's clothing retained distinctive elements that reinforced traditional feminine ideals—flowing silhouettes,delicate embellishments,and ornate details—producing an aesthetic of gentleness,grace,and compliance.This duality mirrors the psychological and social dilemmas faced by contemporary women:a desire to assert independence accompanied by hesitation toward familiar expressions of femininity.The tension surfaces in debates over whether to adopt masculine-inspired styles for empowerment or cultivate distinctly feminine modes of self-expression.This sartorial ambivalence reflects deeper identity negotiations,as many women navigate the pull of progressive aspirations alongside ingrained social expectations.The wardrobe thus becomes a visible site where internal conflicts about gender identity are worked through. The historical evolution of Western attire reveals a dynamic of mutual influence between gender-specific styles.While maintaining clear distinctions,men's and women's fashion have long engaged in reciprocal borrowing.This has led to contemporary dress that both visually demarcates gender identities and accentuates the characteristics and social roles associated with masculinity and femininity.The relationship exhibits a paradoxical harmony:while preserving distinct identities,the two constellations of style cohere into an aesthetic unity.It is precisely their differences that make productive exchange possible.This ongoing dialogue stimulates continuous development,yielding a dynamic ecosystem in which gender-specific styles maintain their uniqueness while enriching each other.关键词
现代服装/性别塑造/性别气质/性别外观/男装/女装Key words
modern clothing/gender construction/gender temperament/gender appearance/menswear/womenswear分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
杨道圣,张莹..现代服装与性别塑造[J].丝绸,2026,63(1):1-8,8.基金项目
北京服装学院新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871) （11000024T000003073871）
