丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(1)：48-56,9.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.01.006
毛条浸渍法防毡缩处理工艺探究
Study on anti-felting treatment process of wool tops using impregnation method
摘要
Abstract
Wool is a natural fiber material with excellent performance,while wool fabrics are prone to irreversible felting due to the directional friction effect(DFE)of the scale layer during the washing process,which seriously affects their wearability.Research has shown that the key way to inhibit wool felting is to regulate the scale structure and reduce the coefficient of friction difference in the direction of the scales through surface modification technology.At present,the anti-felting shrinkage treatment methods for wool mainly include chlorination,oxidation and bio-enzymatic methods.Although the chlorination method can significantly improve the anti-felting shrinkage performance of wool,its treatment process will produce wastewater with high concentration of adsorbable organic halide(AOX),which has serious environmental risks and is contrary to the concept of green,low-carbon and sustainable development of the wool textile industry.In recent years,the protease-based chlorine-free anti-felting shrinkage finishing technology has gradually become a research hotspot in the field of wool green modification due to its environmental friendliness and low fiber damage characteristics.However,it is often difficult to achieve the desired anti-felting shrinkage effect(e.g.,the IWTO-20 standard)directly through protease treatment alone,and synergies with other technologies are often required to meet the high standards required for commercial applications. To solve the problems of serious environmental pollution caused by chlorination,uneven treatment by single chemical method or single protease method,and limited anti-felting shrinkage effect,this paper constructs a new process of synergistic treatment of wool tops by"chemical-protease."Based on the mechanism of oxidizing and reducing pretreatment to enhance the efficiency of enzyme action,two synergistic pathways including"thiourea dioxide pretreatment(10 g/L,60℃/5 h)→alkaline protease refinement(7.5 U/mL,pH 8.0,50℃/1 h)"and"potassium persulfate pretreatment(3.75 g/L,pH 3.0,40℃/1 h)→alkaline protease refinement(7.5 U/mL,pH 8.0,50℃/1 h)"were designed.Thiourea dioxide is a strongly reducing hyposulfite with the effect of disrupting disulfide bonds and opening the channel for protease action.Potassium persulfate is a strong oxidizing agent that decomposes in water to produce reactive oxygen groups such as sulfate radicals,which can selectively attack and break the disulfide bonds of cystine-rich disabilities in the outermost cuticle of scales.In this study,firstly,the effects of mass concentration and treatment time of TD and KMPS on the anti-felting shrink performance and strength of wool tops were investigated respectively,and the effects of protease vigor concentration on wool tops were also studied.Then the effect of protease vigor concentration on the cotreatment process was investigated.Finally,the changes in surface morphology of wool fibers after finishing by different processes were observed by electron microscope,the effects of different processes on the structure of wool fibers were analyzed by infrared spectroscopy and Raman spectroscopy,and the dyeing rate and surface color depth values of wool tops treated by different processes were determined.The experimental results showed that the synergistic treatment of the chemical-protease method resulted in a breakthrough improvement in the anti-felting performance of wool tops:the volume of felting ball increased by 86%and 119%(higher than that of the single enzyme method by 8.31%)and the diameter of felti shrinkage balls was greater than 3 cm.In addition,the dyeing performance was also improved.A series of experimental results demonstrated that the chemical pretreatment activated the action site of protease,which could loosen the structure of the scales and enable the protease to efficiently hydrolyze the cell membrane complex(CMC)between the scales,stipping off the edge of the scales and furtuer reducing the directiongal friction effect. Chemical-protease synergistic treatment is the most promising green technology in the field of wool anti-felting shrinkage,which is characterized by mild conditions,environmental protection,non-pollution and other outstanding features.This study will contribute to the subsequent small-scale wool enterprises in anti-felting treatment of wool tops and comply with the low-carbon index,and it also provides a new path for the anti-felting shrinkage treatment of wool tops by impregnation method.关键词
过硫酸氢钾/二氧化硫脲/蛋白酶/毛条/毡缩球体积/防毡缩Key words
potassium persulfate/thiourea dioxide/protease/wool tops/felting shrinkage balls/anti-felting分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
伍秀萍,王平,余圆圆,王俊,王强..毛条浸渍法防毡缩处理工艺探究[J].丝绸,2026,63(1):48-56,9.基金项目
国家重点研发计划项目(2021YFC2104000) （2021YFC2104000）
