丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(1)：86-95,10.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.01.010
清代宫廷萨满祭祀绣龙纹缎幅与晚清时期宫廷染料过渡
Transition of dyes in the late Qing Dynasty through shamanic ritual hangings:Embroidered dragon-patterned satins from the Palace Museum
摘要
Abstract
Shamanism,as a unique belief system of Qing Dynasty rulers,held significant importance within the imperial ritual framework.The embroidered dragon-patterned satins preserved in the Palace Museum served as specialized ceremonial textiles for Qing imperial shamanic worship,embodying dual connotations of religious culture and imperial symbolism.These three satins share identical forms,with their patterns and color palettes representing the decorative style of imperial textiles produced during the late Qing Dynasty.The purple and red hues used exhibit a striking divergence from the subtle tones of traditional natural dyes,displaying heightened chromatic intensity.This vibrant coloration attests to the profound influence of imported synthetic dyeing techniques on China's textile craftsmanship during the late Qing Dynasty.As ritual statutes-mandated textiles for imperial religious ceremonies,the embroidered dragon-pattern satins possess significant paradigmatic value.Research on their dyes and manufacturing techniques provides critical insights for elucidating the transition of imperial colorants and documenting Western industrial technology's impact on textile production during the late Qing dynasty. To characterize the materials,techniques,and dye applications of these satins,comprehensive analysis was conducted on textile fibers,silk sizing,and dyes using polarized light microscopy,micro-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy,and ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry(UPLC-QTOF).Results demonstrated all satins were woven and embroidered with mulberry silk,subsequently treated with starch sizing derived from tuberous plants through paste-scraping technique.This process significantly enhanced the textiles'draping rigidity,surface smoothness,and wrinkle resistance when hung,fulfilling the specialized requirements for enduring formal presentation of ritual textiles in the Qing palace. UPLC-QTOF results further revealed four natural dyes and eleven industrial dyes applied in the satins.Specifically,early synthetic dyes such as crocein scarlet 3B and methyl violet were used to replace traditional plant-based dyes for red and purple hues.Black yarn continued to be obtained by traditional methods of over-dyeing with plant tannins and indigo.Yellow dyes exhibited functional differentiation:the dragon motifs,which are the central to the ritual system,were still dyed using the traditional technique of combining amur cork with safflower,while auramine O was used as a substitute for the lining.Furthermore,adaptation of traditional overdyeing techniques to synthetic dyes successfully produced rich intermediate colors including deep purple,orange-red,green,and brown,demonstrating practical ingenuity through technological integration. This multidisciplinary study constitutes the first comprehensive analysis of Qing imperial shamanic textiles.These findings reflect the transition of dyeing techniques in the Qing imperial court under the dual influences of ceremonial constraints and industrial penetration in the late 19th century,providing scientific foundations for historical research on shamanic rituals in the Qing court as well as for the conservation and restoration of cultural relics.关键词
宫廷萨满祭祀/绣龙纹缎幅/早期工业染料/丝织品上浆Key words
royal shamanic ritual/satin hangings embroidered with dragon patterns/early synthetic dyes/sizing of silk fabrics分类
社会科学引用本文复制引用
赵丽,崔筝..清代宫廷萨满祭祀绣龙纹缎幅与晚清时期宫廷染料过渡[J].丝绸,2026,63(1):86-95,10.基金项目
故宫博物院英才计划项目(20240101) （20240101）
