Abstract
Wool is a natural protein-based fiber widely used in the textile industry due to its softness,warmth,and excellent mechanical resilience.However,wool presents significant challenges in dyeing and finishing processes because of its scaly surface structure and inherent hydrophobicity.These structural features reduce dye affinity,lead to uneven coloration,and result in poor color fastness,especially when reactive dyes are used.Traditional chemical pretreatments often involve harsh conditions and high environmental burdens,which are incompatible with sustainable manufacturing goals.Therefore,developing an eco-friendly and efficient dyeing and finishing process for wool is a crucial goal in textile engineering.
This study aims to establish a high-performance dyeing and fixation system for wool fabrics by integrating low-temperature plasma surface modification with ST210 post-dyeing fixation.Plasma treatment is a physical-chemical process that modifies the surface of fibers without damaging their bulk properties.It can effectively remove surface lipid layers and scaly structures and introduce polar functional groups,thereby improving hydrophilicity and increasing dye binding sites.Meanwhile,ST210 is a silicone-based fixing agent known for its ability to form a dense,cross-linked film on the fiber surface,thereby enhancing dye fixation and improving color fastness.
The research process was divided into three main stages.First,wool yarns were treated using low-temperature plasma under optimized operating conditions.This treatment aimed to etch the fiber surface and increase the presence of active polar sites.Second,the plasma-treated wool yarns were dyed using wool-specific reactive dyes under controlled conditions.Finally,a post-dyeing fixation treatment was applied using different concentrations of ST210 to improve the stability of dye-fiber bonding.
A single-factor experimental design was employed to systematically investigate the influence of four key parameters:the dosage of ST210(expressed as a percentage of fiber weight,owf),the pH value of the fixing bath,the soaking temperature,and the soaking time.The primary performance indicators evaluated were washing fastness and rubbing fastness,tested according to GB∕T 3921 and GB∕T 3920 standards,respectively.In addition to macroscopic performance evaluation,microscopic and chemical analyses were conducted using scanning electron microscopy(SEM)and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy(XPS)to investigate the morphological and elemental changes on the fiber surface.
The experimental results showed that when the ST210 dosage was 3%owf,the pH of the bath was maintained between 5.0 and 6.0,the soaking temperature was 50℃,and the treatment duration was 25 minutes,the dyed wool fabrics achieved optimal performance.Compared to untreated samples,the treated samples exhibited an improvement of 0.5 to 1.5 grades in both washing and rubbing fastness,meeting the first-class product standard under GB18401.SEM analysis revealed that plasma treatment effectively removed the outer cuticle layer and increased the surface roughness,which facilitated deeper dye penetration and better adsorption.XPS analysis confirmed a higher concentration of polar groups such as—SO3-,—COOH,and—OH,which contributed to the improved dye-fiber interaction.The subsequent application of ST210 led to the formation of a compact film on the fiber surface,primarily composed of Si—O—Si cross-linked networks,which significantly enhanced the wash durability of the dyed fabrics while maintaining a soft hand feel.
The findings of this study demonstrate that the combination of plasma treatment and ST210 fixation results in a synergistic enhancement of dyeing efficiency and fastness in wool fabrics.The dual mechanism—surface activation followed by chemical fixation—addresses both the limitations of dye absorption and dye retention,which are common in wool dyeing using reactive dyes.Moreover,the method is environmentally friendly,as plasma treatment does not require water or additional chemicals,and ST210 is a low-formaldehyde formulation with minimal ecological impact.
The innovation of this study lies in integrating low-temperature plasma treatment with silicone color-fixing agents for the first time in wool reactive dyeing and finishing,establishing a complete pathway from structural modification to performance enhancement.Simultaneously,the study unveils the influence mechanism of surface structural and chemical changes in fibers on dyeing performance during the dyeing and finishing process based on microscopic characterization,which holds significant theoretical importance and practical value.关键词
羊毛/活性染料/染色/固色/色牢度/绿色整理Key words
wool/reactive dye/dyeing/color fixation/color fastness/green finishing分类
轻工纺织
