丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(3)：90-100,11.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.03.010
多彩漳缎技艺的探源研究及复制——以故宫博物院藏"湖色缠枝牡丹纹漳缎"为例
A study on the origin and replication of the colorful Zhang satin technique:Taking the"lake-colored Zhang satin with twining peony motifs"collected in the Palace Museum as an example
摘要
Abstract
Zhang satin,an outstanding representative of China's velvet-figured silk fabrics,emerged in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties and flourished in the Qing Dynasty.It was a product that epitomized its era in Suzhou's imperial weaving industry.The basic characteristics of Zhang satin are its satin ground weave,with velvet warp threads.The patterns are raised and convex,appearing dignified and luxurious. After the"Suzhou Zhang Satin Weaving Technique"was listed as a provincial-level intangible cultural heritage protection project in 2011,the author,as a representative inheritor,felt an even greater sense of responsibility and mission.Efforts have been made to conduct research,clarify its history,and explore traditional craftsmanship.Previous research has focused more on single-color and dual-color Zhang satin,while multi-color Zhang satin remains relatively understudied.The second-class cultural relic"lake-colored Zhang satin with twining peony motifs"housed in the Palace Museum is a more structurally complex example of colorful Zhang satin,showcasing exceptionally exquisite craftsmanship.It serves as evidence that the design and production of Chinese figured-patterned velvet textiles had reached an absolute pinnacle of technical mastery.Therefore,it is necessary to conduct replication research on this artifact to explore the technical mysteries of weaving multi-colored velvet warps with simultaneous patterning.This endeavor aims to lay a more solid foundation for the higher-quality inheritance and development of the intangible cultural heritage technique. Based on the current limited research on this technique,this paper focuses on multi-colored Zhang satin as the primary subject of study.It elaborates on the structural forms and characteristics of multi-colored Zhang satin and conducts a technical analysis using the second-class cultural relic"lake-colored Zhang satin with twining peony motifs"from the Palace Museum as a case study.The paper outlines the commonalities and distinctive features between this artifact and general monochrome velvet warp-patterned Zhang satin,and identifies the core principles of this craftsmanship.The study focuses on exploring the preparatory and weaving techniques for creating multi-colored raised patterns.Key technical data obtained from on-site examination of the original artifact—such as fabric structure,warp and weft density,and the arrangement ratio of warp and weft threads—serve as critical references.Based on the information,replication specifications are formulated,encompassing a series of technical processes including the arrangement of velvet warp threads,dyeing and processing,pattern replication,pattern drafting and card punching,preparatory methods suitable for multi-group velvet warp patterning,and weaving techniques.The practical research yielded two significant findings.First,the technical complexity of the"lake-colored Zhang satin with twining peony motifs"lies in its three sets of velvet warps forming patterns simultaneously—a structure unique among existing Zhang satin artifacts.This reveals the remarkably advanced design thinking of ancient artisans.The study,conducted with almost no documented weaving techniques as reference,proved highly challenging.Second,the research successfully addressed the difficulty of simultaneously patterning velvet warps in three colors along the warp direction,explored weaving process designs that allow both pile and looped velvet to coexist according to the pattern structure requirements,and resolved key technical issues such as coordination between the motif sample and the multi-colored raised warp threads,as well as the sequence of shuttle throws during weaving.The findings of the research provide a more comprehensive understanding of Zhang satin craftsmanship,particularly deepening our admiration for the creativity of ancient artisans—an embodiment of the outstanding cultural heritage of the Chinese nation.Through the study,exploration,and practical application of this technique,a crucial foundation has been laid for the broader and deeper inheritance and preservation of Zhang satin weaving skills.This will undoubtedly contribute to the high-quality development of this intangible cultural heritage in textile craftsmanship,reflecting the responsibility and commitment of contemporary inheritors.关键词
多彩漳缎/探源研究/技艺/牡丹纹/故宫Key words
colorful Zhang satin/origin research/craftsmanship/peony pattern/the Palace Museum分类
社会科学引用本文复制引用
王晨..多彩漳缎技艺的探源研究及复制——以故宫博物院藏"湖色缠枝牡丹纹漳缎"为例[J].丝绸,2026,63(3):90-100,11.基金项目
国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(21GB128) （21GB128）
