丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(3)：101-108,8.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.03.011
唐代石榴裙色彩考证与复原
Research and restoration of the color of pomegranate skirts in the Tang Dynasty
摘要
Abstract
The pomegranate skirt was a popular dress in the Tang Dynasty,and it was a symbol of economic prosperity,social openness and cultural confidence at that time.In modern times,the pomegranate skirt as a garment has almost disappeared,and only a few scholars have conducted sporadic research on it.To inherit and promote traditional Chinese clothing culture,in recent years,many scholars have conducted a large amount of digital restoration research on the costumes of figures in ancient paintings and the remaining physical costumes.However,there is a little literature that verifies the dyeing techniques of traditional costumes and carries out practical dyeing operations to restore their colors.Taking the pomegranate skirt as an example,this article verifies and restores its color,providing reference and inspiration for modern scholars to study the color restoration of the pomegranate skirt and even more traditional costumes. This article investigates pomegranate skirt,pomegranate color,safflower and its dyeing process by consulting ancient books,and summarizes the modern research results on the structure and properties of carthamin.After removing the safflower yellow pigment and extracting carthamin from dry and loose safflower,the silk fabrics are dyed to obtain some samples with different concentrations of dyeing solution and dyeing time.Meanwhile,the silk fabrics are dyed after extracting pigments from madder and sappanwood,respectively obtaining some samples with different dyeing times or mordant dyeing processes.The dyed silk fabrics of safflower,madder and sappanwood are compared,and the color characteristic values L∗,a∗,b∗ and c∗,and the apparent color depth K/S value of the silk fabrics are obtained by computer color measurement.Two major conclusions are drawn.First,since the Northern and Southern Dynasties,there have been many records in poetry and prose of various dynasties of women wearing pomegranate skirts,or using pomegranate skirts to refer to beautiful women.This fully proves the real existence of pomegranate skirts,which have a history of more than 1500 years.They were most popular in the Tang Dynasty and were still worn by women until the Qing Dynasty.The color of the pomegranate skirt,also known as pomegranate color,is called true red,scarlet,scarlet blood or orangutan blood.The safflower and its dyed color are also called true red,scarlet,scarlet blood or orangutan blood.The two are exactly the same,so the pomegranate skirt is dyed with safflower.Second,safflower,madder and sappanwood were all important red dyes in ancient times.However,compared with madder or sappanwood,the red color obtained from safflower dyed silk fabrics is more vivid and pure both in physical form and in color measurement data.The maximum red-green value a∗ and the maximum chroma c∗ of safflower dyed silk fabrics are 56.40 and 61.31,far exceeding those of madder or sappanwood dyed silk fabrics.This further confirms that the pomegranate skirt is dyed with safflower rather than madder or sappanwood.Referring to the color of the pomegranate skirts worn by figures in Tang Dynasty paintings and sculptures,it can be considered that the apparent color depth K/S value can reach 7.4 or higher. We consult a large number of ancient books to verify the color of the pomegranate skirt,the dyes used and the dyeing process.Through practical dyeing operations,the restoration is carried out,and the color characteristic values of the pomegranate skirt is obtained by computer color measurement.This is different from the research methods of other scholars who absorb colors from the costumes of figures in ancient paintings or the remaining physical costumes and restore the colors of the costumes.Of course,the restoration of pomegranate skirt is not limited to color.Under the political,economic and cultural background of the Tang Dynasty and the textile and garment processing technology at that time,what were the fiber raw materials used in the pomegranate skirt?What was the structure of fabric?Did the pomegranate skirt have a specific shape?How about the cutting and sewing techniques of the pattern pieces?These problems all await further in-depth research by more scholars. The pomegranate skirt is a precious memory in the long river of Chinese history and a brilliant pearl in traditional costume culture.We look forward to the return of the pomegranate skirt.关键词
石榴裙/石榴色/红花/红花红色素/茜草/苏木Key words
pomegranate skirt/pomegranate red/safflower/carthamin/madder/sappanwood分类
社会科学引用本文复制引用
陈秀芳,徐若瑶,陈大旗,张传有..唐代石榴裙色彩考证与复原[J].丝绸,2026,63(3):101-108,8.基金项目
安徽省教育厅科研项目(2024AH052701、2024AH050870) （2024AH052701、2024AH050870）
