丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(3)：125-132,8.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.03.014
湘西红苗女性头饰形制功能与成因研究
A study on the functional evolution and formation causes of the headdress styles of Red Miao women in Xiangxi
摘要
Abstract
As an essential carrier of traditional Chinese costume culture,the headdress of Red Miao women in Xiangxi(western Hunan)embodies ethnic historical memory and cultural identity through its stylistic evolution and functional transformation.Current academic research on Miao ethnic attire primarily focuses on static morphological analysis,lacking systematic exploration of dynamic development mechanisms.This study aims to reveal the stylistic evolution trajectory of Red Miao women's headdresses from the late Ming Dynasty to contemporary times through diachronic investigation and interdisciplinary analysis,while elucidating the internal logic and external driving forces behind functional transitions.By addressing theoretical gaps in traditional costume culture research regarding dynamic development mechanisms,this work provides academic support for the living inheritance of intangible cultural heritage. The research systematically examines the formal structures,decorative patterns,and functional characteristics of Red Miao women's headdresses in Xiangxi through literature review,fieldwork with physical artifacts,and image comparison.The evolutionary causes of headdress styles are further explored through multidisciplinary analysis.Research demonstrates that Red Miao women's headdresses exhibit an evolutionary trend from practicality to ornamentation,and from simplicity to complexity.Their styles evolved from"dagger-shaped hairpins"to"inserted silver floral decorations,"ultimately forming the"silver-flower peace cap"system.Functionally,these headdresses transitioned from serving as hair-bun fixers to becoming faith-based ornaments and identity markers.Through pattern encoding,they established a visual symbol system for ethnic subgroup identification and social regulation.This transformation was driven by dual factors:first,the Qing Dynasty's"haircutting and earring removal"policy and the Republic of China's assimilation policies compelled traditional silver craftsmanship to shift toward more decorative silver hat systems;second,Han-Miao cultural integration spurred innovation in decorative patterns.The fusion of Han Chinese auspicious motifs"Fu(blessing),Lu(prosperity),Shou(longevity)and Xi(joy)"with Miao totem symbols created a"multi-unity"visual language.This adaptive strategy of a marginalized ethnic group during cultural encounters reflects not only the technical evolution path of traditional silver craftsmanship but also reveals the inheritance and innovation mechanisms of ethnic costume culture during modernization,providing a cultural gene database for contemporary design applications. Through systematic fieldwork,literature organization,and artifact collection,this study constructs a research framework covering the Ming and Qing dynasties to contemporary times regarding Red Miao women's headdresses in Xiangxi.The primary innovations include:analyzing the evolution process from policy regulation,cultural integration,and technical perspectives to reveal the developmental patterns of traditional silver craftsmanship under historical changes;exploring how Miao silver ornaments transmit ethnic cultural information through pattern analysis,offering new insights into semiotic studies of ethnic costume decorations.关键词
湘西红苗/头饰/形制流变/功能演进/身份秩序/成因Key words
Red Miao in Xiangxi/headdress/formal evolution/functional evolution/identity order/formation cause分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
刘欢,王柯..湘西红苗女性头饰形制功能与成因研究[J].丝绸,2026,63(3):125-132,8.基金项目
国家社会科学基金冷门"绝学"和国别史等研究专项项目(19VJX170) （19VJX170）
教育部人文社会科学项目(21YJC760111) （21YJC760111）
海南大学人文社会科学国家级科研培育项目(25GJJPY-29) （25GJJPY-29）
