丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(4)：1-8,8.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.04.001
20世纪20年代以来中国缂丝工艺研究的知识图景
An intellectual mapping of Chinese kesi craftsmanship research since the 1920s
摘要
Abstract
In recent years,the successive inclusion of kesi Chinese silk tapestry)in various levels of intangible cultural heritage lists has fully affirmed its unique value in human civilization.However,with the accelerating pace of modernization,the survival and development space for this traditional craft has been significantly constrained.Against this backdrop,Chinese kesi craftsmanship is actively exploring feasible paths for modern transformation and sustainable development. Clarifying the academic lineage of kesi research in China is essential for advancing the field.Employing a mixed-methods approach,this study conducts an in-depth qualitative analysis based on a systematic literature review and bibliometric assessment.The analysis of knowledge production in this field reveals that the research community primarily comprises museum professionals and university scholars.The evolution of research approaches is rooted in the intrinsic characteristics of kesi,shifting from artifact authentication based on its"as precious as gold"material value to living heritage research centered on its"using the shuttle as a brush"craft essence.Consequently,research content manifests a dual focus:one dimension concentrates on the craft's ontology,including image documentation,artistic principle analysis and product conservation and development;the other investigates its cultural dimensions,such as historical origins meaning-making mechanisms,and contemporary development strategies.However,a significant disconnect persists between static ontological analysis and dynamic cultural investigation. To address this gap,this study proposes three recommendations from a contemporary value perspective.First,by categorizing creative agents,a subject-object collaborative value transformation mechanism should be established to precisely meet the practical needs of different stakeholders.Second,digital image-text corroboration should be employed to integrate high-resolution artifact images from global museum collections with historical texts,so as to facilitate a spatiotemporal analysis of kesi's cultural DNA and provide historical-contextual support for innovative practices.Third,a psychological analysis perspective should be introduced to examine the specific needs of various groups within both supply and demand sides,so as to offer practical theoretical guidance for kesi's contemporary innovation. This paper employs"knowledge production"as its analytical framework,proceeding from three dimensions:historical context,internal structure,and research prospects.Among these,the exploration of research prospects from the perspective of value philosophy aims precisely to address the contradictions and problems revealed through the analysis of the internal structure.Thus,the study develops a progressive approach—moving from retrospecting history,to analyzing the current situation,and then to envisioning the future based on the issues identified in the present—thereby achieving a comprehensive and in-depth understanding of this academic field.关键词
缂丝/高质量发展/物质文化遗产/非物质文化遗产/当代价值Key words
kesi/high-quality development/tangible cultural heritage/intangible cultural heritage/contemporary value分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
陈颖,梁惠娥..20世纪20年代以来中国缂丝工艺研究的知识图景[J].丝绸,2026,63(4):1-8,8.基金项目
江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(KYCX24 2501) （KYCX24 2501）
