丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(4)：107-116,10.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.04.012
汴绣与杭绣的艺术特征及发展动因比较研究
A comparative study on the artistic characteristics and development motivations of Bian embroidery and Hang embroidery
摘要
Abstract
Bian embroidery and Hang embroidery,originating from the Northern Song capital Bianliang and the Southern Song capital Lin'an respectively,represent the essence of Song Dynasty embroidery artistry.Both were inscribed on China's National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2008 and 2009.Although they share a common lineage within the"Song embroidery"system,current academic research lacks systematic comparative analysis and exploration of the factors behind their development.Based on Song Dynasty embroidery pieces from museum collections,archaeological finds,and modern works,this study systematically sorts out and compares the historical context,artistic characteristics,and developmental motivations of Bian embroidery and Hang embroidery,aiming to reveal the cultural logic behind their differentiation and their contemporary significance. The research first traces the common historical origin of both styles—the rise and development of Song embroidery.Deeply influenced by painting,Song embroidery developed artistic features characterized by"painting-like composition"exquisitely fine stitches"and"subtle color schemes."Following the Jingkang Incident and the southward shift of the political capital,Song embroidery split into northern and southern branches.Bian embroidery,rooted in the Central Plains merged with folk culture,evolving towards practicality and popularization.Hang embroidery,nurtured by the literati aesthetics of Jiangnan and court demands,continued the refined and elegant"courtly"tradition. Artistically,this paper conducts an in-depth comparison from three dimensions:needlework techniques,color logic and thematic narratives.Bian embroidery emphasizes three-dimensional texture and decorative effects,developing characteristic techniques such as double-sided embroidery,seed stitching,and plait stitch.It employs strong color contrasts and often focuses on historical narratives and folk symbols,reflecting the substantial and open character of Central Plains culture.In contrast,Hang embroidery centers on gold and silver thread techniques,pursuing extreme refinement and understated luxury.Its colors are elegant and harmonious,and its themes frequently draw from Jiangnan's natural landscapes and literati tastes,embodying the poetic aesthetic and Zen-inspired philosophy of Jiangnan culture. Furthermore,this paper analyzes the reasons for their developmental differences from four aspects:regional culture artisan structure,transmission mechanisms,and transformation paths.Bian embroidery,rooted in the agrarian civilization of the Central Plains,historically relied on female artisans and family/master-apprentice transmission,recently revitalizing itself through cultural tourism development.Hang embroidery,deeply influenced by Jiangnan literati culture,once featured a prominent"male artisan"tradition.In modern times,it has fostered transmission through higher education and fashion crossovers,promoting the technique's upscaling and internationalization. The study concludes that the artistic divergence between Bian embroidery and Hang embroidery is essentially a projection of Central Plains versus Jiangnan cultural aesthetics in different historical periods.Their distinct developmental paths result from the long-term interplay of multiple factors,including political changes,regional characteristics,artisan demographics,and inheritance models.This study not only deepens the understanding of the artistic essence of Bian embroidery and Hang embroidery but also provides a significant case study of the diversity within the unity of Chinese traditional embroidery art.It holds implications for the creative transformation and innovative development of intangible cultural heritage in the contemporary era.Future research could further explore the symbolic transformation and dissemination pathways of embroidery techniques in the digital age to sustain their cultural vitality.关键词
刺绣/杭绣/汴绣/对比研究/艺术特征/发展动因Key words
embroidery/Hang embroidery/Bian embroidery/comparative study/artistic characteristics/development motivation分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
刘芯雨,蔡丽玲..汴绣与杭绣的艺术特征及发展动因比较研究[J].丝绸,2026,63(4):107-116,10.基金项目
浙江省高校重大人文社会科学攻关计划项目资助项目(2024QN131) （2024QN131）
浙江省哲学社会科学重点项目(25NDJC009Z) （25NDJC009Z）
