染整技术2026，Vol.48Issue(5)：58-61,4.
纹以载道:清代戏曲服饰"靠"甲纹的符号学研究
Patterns bearing Dao:A semiotic study of the armor patterns on the"Kao"in Qing Dynasty opera costumes
摘要
Abstract
The armor patterns on the Qing Dynasty opera costume"kao"are symbolic representations of traditional Chinese armor in stage art,carrying spiritual connotations such as loyalty,bravery,and righteousness,as well as a strict visual order.This paper selects 10 armor patterns of the Qing Dynasty"kao"from"Traditional Opera Costumes"as the research objects,and uses Morris's semiotic trichotomy as the theoretical framework to systematically interpret the symbolic meaning,form composition,and functional evolution of the armor patterns from the three levels of semantics,syntax,and pragmatics.The research shows that the embroidery of the armor patterns is essentially a symbolic translation of ancient armor from physical protection to visual representation.Its morphological units,composition rules,and craftsmanship language together constitute transferable visual resources.On this basis,this paper proposes to promote the modern transformation of the"Kao"armor patterns from three dimensions:pattern extraction,structural reference,and craftsmanship continuation,providing a theoretical basis for the innovative design of opera costume patterns.关键词
清代戏曲服饰"靠"/甲纹/莫里斯符号学Key words
"Kao"in Qing Dynasty opera costumes/patterns of armor/Morris semiotics分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
张春夏,何钦,曹娇杨,李若萱..纹以载道:清代戏曲服饰"靠"甲纹的符号学研究[J].染整技术,2026,48(5):58-61,4.基金项目
2026年度天津市艺术科学规划项目"津派剧装戏具制作技艺及其发展路径研究"(A26004) （A26004）
