Abstract
Against the backdrop of glocalization,Chinese intangible cultural heritage(ICH)handicrafts have become an important resource for cultural innovation and value enhancement in international luxury brands,while also gradually being integrated into the identity construction and market expansion of domestic brands.However,the transformation of production modes brought about by industrialization and digitalization has exposed ICH handicrafts to risks of disrupted transmission,market contraction,and lagging innovation.In response to these tensions,this article introduces the theories of glocalization,cultural translation,brand narrative,and co-creation to construct an"glocal co-creation"analytical framework.On this basis,it systematically examines the drivers,mechanisms,value,and dilemmas of collaborative development between fashion brands and ICH handicrafts along two pathways:the"outside-in"initiatives led by international luxury brands and the"inside-out"strategies adopted by Chinese domestic brands.
Methodologically,this study combines literature review,case study,and interviews,and conducts comparative analysis of relevant practices of international luxury brands between 2019 and 2024 and recent practices of domestic brands.For the"outside-in"pathway,brands such as BMW,Hermès,and Dior are taken as representative cases,covering different collaboration modes including copyright acquisition,craft outsourcing,and deep co-creation.For the"inside-out"pathway,the focus is placed on domestic brands such as Soft Mountains.Through interviews and close reading of texts,the study unpacks the discourse and practical logics of different actors.
The findings indicate that in the"outside-in"pathway dominated by luxury brands,ICH handicrafts are incorporated into global brand systems through three modes—symbolic extraction,technical embedding,and deep co-creation.This process enhances the visibility and cultural capital of ICH and stimulates craft innovation.Nonetheless,it also generates problems such as the concentration of cultural translation power,decontextualization,and unequal distribution of benefits,making it difficult for artisans to share in the long-term brand premium.In the"inside-out"pathway led by domestic brands,ICH is treated as a core brand asset grounded in national cultural identity.Domestic brands possess advantages in cultural understanding and long-term collaboration and can provide more stable income for ICH communities.Yet,constrained by limitations in capital and brand strength,they remain disadvantaged in terms of global discursive power and pricing power.
Although structurally imbalanced,the two pathways are potentially complementary.This article defines"glocal co-creation"as a process in which multiple actors,situated within asymmetric power structures,achieve equal participation and joint value creation through cultural understanding and meaning negotiation.It further distills three principles of collaboration:cultural understanding and mutual respect;accurate positioning and long-term cooperation;and the coordination of production standards,efficiency,and craft practices.The main contribution of this study lies in integrating existing theories through the"glocal co-creation"framework,thereby revealing the underlying power structures and ethical tensions in such collaborations and refining the corresponding principles of coordination.Future research could employ longitudinal and cross-regional comparative studies to further test and refine the applicability of this framework.关键词
全球在地化/协同共创/协同设计/时尚品牌/非遗手工艺Key words
glocalization/co-creation/co-design/fashion brands/intangible cultural heritage handicrafts分类
轻工纺织
