丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(7)：85-95,11.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.07.010
基于红外光谱技术的植物染棉织物结晶度与老化相关性研究
Research on the correlation between crystallinity and aging of plant-dyed cotton fabrics based on infrared spectroscopy technology
摘要
Abstract
Cotton is a fundamental material among various types of textiles and has a long history of use.Many exquisite cotton garments and ornaments have even acquired historical and cultural value,and are therefore preserved in cultural heritage institutions.The aging problem that cotton textiles face during preservation is,at the microscopic level,a change in the crystallinity of the cotton fibers.Therefore,exploring a convenient and non-destructive method for detecting crystallinity is practical for studying the aging and preventive conservation of cotton fabrics.Based on the characteristic that traditional cotton fabrics are unsuitable for destructive sampling and often contain plant-based dyes,this study employed attenuated total reflectance(ATR)technology to analyze the crystallinity of plant-dyed cotton fabrics in a non-destructive manner and explore the correlation between crystallinity and aging. In this study,the infrared spectra of both plant-dyed and undyed plain cotton fabrics were collected using ATR.The crystallinity,expressed as the ATR crystallinity index(ATR-CI),was calculated based on a specified peak area ratio.The results were then tested for correlation and consistency with the crystallinity measured by X-ray diffraction(XRD-CI).Furthermore,the correlation between crystallinity and aging was analyzed using the fiber aging characteristics observed via scanning electron microscopy(SEM).By leveraging the non-destructive sampling advantage of ATR,combining it with the characteristic peak positions of various traditional plant dyes and cotton fibers in infrared spectroscopy,this study aimed to specifically investigate the material crystallinity of plant-dyed cotton fabrics and to demonstrate the practicality of this method.Experimental results indicate that,ATR demonstrated a preference for assessing the crystallinity of undyed cotton fibers.The obtained ATR-CI showed a strong correlation with XRD-CI(R2=0.866),with the deviation controlled within±2.4％.Samples with lower crystallinity exhibited more pronounced aging characteristics in the cotton fibers.It is deduced that,ATR spectroscopy offered a rapid and non-destructive method for analyzing the crystallinity of plant-dyed cotton fabrics.A positive correlation was established between crystallinity and the degree of aging.For indigo-dyed cotton fabrics,future work should involve expanding the sample size to develop more effective spectral analysis methods,so as to improve the accuracy of ATR-CI. ATR technology has the advantages of non-destructive sampling and simple operation.The crystallization index NO'KI(A)obtained by combining the peak area ratio can have a high linear correlation with the crystallinity detected by XRD,which has certain data reference value for characterizing the aging degree of cotton fabrics.However,indigo dye causes relatively serious interference to ATR detection.Subsequently,it is necessary to increase the sample volume and the number of experiments to find a more scientific and reasonable peak-splitting method to calculate the crystallinity of cotton fabrics containing indigo dye.By using a unified ATR-CI measurement method,reasonable and effective data support can be provided for the aging degree of plant-dyed cotton fabrics.关键词
红外光谱/植物染/棉织物/结晶度/老化Key words
infrared spectrum/plant-dyed/cotton fabrics/crystallinity/aging分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
李思明,李永春,粟宇亮,樊苗苗,郑琳..基于红外光谱技术的植物染棉织物结晶度与老化相关性研究[J].丝绸,2026,63(7):85-95,11.基金项目
广西少数民族服饰文化传承与创新研究项目(21FM034) （21FM034）
广西民族博物馆科研课题立项项目(KYKT202303) （KYKT202303）
