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服装CAD中针织面料服装模拟现状与难题

黄琼芳 戴晓群 洪岩

丝绸2026,Vol.63Issue(8):10-20,11.
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丝绸2026,Vol.63Issue(8):10-20,11.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.08.002

服装CAD中针织面料服装模拟现状与难题

Current state and challenges of knitted garment simulation by apparel CAD systems

黄琼芳 1戴晓群 1洪岩1

作者信息

  • 1. 苏州大学 纺织与服装工程学院,江苏 苏州 215021
  • 折叠

摘要

Abstract

3D apparel CAD technology is accelerating the apparel industry's transformation toward the intelligent and personalized design advocated by Industry 5.0 through digital tools such as 3D modeling,intelligent pattern making,and virtual fitting.Current apparel CAD systems are developed based on woven fabric model,achieving significant success in simulating the draping of garments made of woven fabrics.However,knitted fabrics,exhibit fundamental differences in fabric structure,mechanical properties,and even garment formation mechanisms,compared to woven fabrics.These differences pose significant challenges to current apparel CAD systems when simulating garments made of knitted fabrics,particularly tight-fitting garments.In this context,this paper aims to identify the current state of simulating 3D knitted garment by apparel CAD systems and the associated technical challenges. To achieve this goal,a systematic literature review was carried out.Following the PRISMA framework,39 representative publications were collected.These studies were analyzed in terms of CAD systems employed,simulation purpose,mechanical parameters and deformation,and evaluation of simulation performance.It was found that for loose-fitting and close-fitting garments,the simulation realism of knitted fabrics was similar to that of woven fabrics and almost meets the simulation purposes;but for tight-fitting garments,there were problems such as local fabric pile-up and inaccuracy in pressure prediction. The reason behind these problems was further investigated.According to Laplace's law,pressure depends on fabric tension.Due to the large elongation of knitted fabrics,tensile nonlinearity and Poisson effect are often present in tight-fitting garments.The uniaxial tensile test often used to obtain tensile parameters for CAD systems cannot capture the real biaxial extension of knitted fabrics occurring in tight-fitting garments.However,in current apparel CAD systems,Poisson effect is rarely considered,and the tensile property is often assumed as linear.The absence of Poisson effect simulation leads to the local fabric pile-up while the inaccurate tensile parameter results in error in pressure prediction.Moreover,because current 3D apparel CAD systems aim at drape simulation of static garments,the garment-body contact model is over-simplified,thus is not suitable for pressure prediction. To address the issue,instead of uniaxial tensile tests,biaxial tensile tests were proposed for knitted fabrics,especially for tight-fitting garment simulation.On the other hand,as the core of pressure prediction,the garment-body contact model needs to be built to describe the mechanical interaction accurately.Moreover,as a key component of the contact,new generation of human body model,which can bear normal pressure from garments and deform along with body posture change and movement,needs to be developed for tight-fitting garment simulation. For the first time,this paper gives a systematic review on 3D knitted garment simulation by apparel CAD systems,and addresses the issues both from the principle and technical aspects.The findings of this study provide a theoretical basis and technical pathway for next-generation intelligent CAD systems,enabling high-fidelity simulation of tight-fitting garments made from knitted fabrics and other elastic materials.

关键词

服装CAD/针织面料服装/三维服装模拟/压力预测/泊松效应

Key words

apparel CAD/knitted fabric/3D garment simulation/pressure prediction/Poisson effect

分类

轻工纺织

引用本文复制引用

黄琼芳,戴晓群,洪岩..服装CAD中针织面料服装模拟现状与难题[J].丝绸,2026,63(8):10-20,11.

丝绸

1001-7003

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