丝绸2026，Vol.63Issue(10)：1-12,12.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.10.001
纺织工业标准国际化现状、问题及跃升路径研究
Research on the current status,probloms,and development path of internationalization of textile industry standards
摘要
Abstract
The global textile industry is undergoing a profound restructuring in its competitive landscape,with standards emerging as a core strategic tool in the race for industrial discourse power.China's textile and apparel exports exceeded US $ 300 billion for five consecutive years from 2020 to 2024,but saw a year-on-year decline of 2.4%in 2025,signaling a shift from"cost competition"to"rules competition."Developed countries are pursuing"reindustrialization,"while countries like India and Vietnam are rapidly emerging due to labor and treaty dividends.Notably,the implementation of the India-EU Free Trade Agreement in 2026 has exerted dual pressures on China,namely"high-end squeezing"and"low-end diversion."Meanwhile,tools like Product Environmental Footprint(PEF),and Digital Product Passport(DPP)are deeply intertwined with standards like OEKO-TEX and GRS,creating technical barriers to trade.Domestically,China has conducted specialized explorations on standard internationalization in areas such as railways,electricity,and agricultural products.However,systematic research on the textile industry is lacking,with existing achievements mostly confined to practical summaries.Foreign research focuses on developed countries constructing"rules barriers,"but lacks a systematic analysis of China's structural situation in textile rules competition.This study focuses on:(i)identifying the deep-seated bottlenecks that constrain China's dominance in international standards;(ii)constructing a leapfrog path from"structural participation"to"substantive output;"(iii)proposing strategies to transform industrial upgrading needs into standard discourse power,so as to fill the gap in this field. Based on this,this study adopts a method combining qualitative analysis and quantitative data.Firstly,from the two dimensions of"structural participation"and"substantive output,"the status of China in the ISO system in the textile field is evaluated.By searching the ISO official website and annual reports,the number of positions,proposal projects,and project approval rates of China in technical committees such as ISO/TC 38 from 2021 to 2025 are collected.Secondly,the influence of private standard systems represented by OEKO-TEX,as well as traditional standard organizations such as ASTM,AATCC,and CEN,is analyzed.The dual regulation reality is revealed from three aspects:standard coverage,market recognition,and degree of binding with international trade.Finally,the diagnosis of problems is conducted from objective constraintsand subjective shortcomings,and the leapfrogging path is proposed. Research has found that China has achieved a phased breakthrough in the ISO system—with obvious advantages in basic fields such as fibers,and undertaking some secretariat and chair roles;however,in emerging fields dominated by the US and Europe,such as smart manufacturing and circular economy,there is a significant weakness in rule-making dominance,leading to long-term passivity in dealing with technical barriers to trade.Meanwhile,traditional standard organizations such as ASTM,AATCC,and CEN hold the power to define in basic testing methods and regional market access;private standard systems such as OEKO-TEX and GOTS leverage ecological and sustainable issues to form de facto mandatory regulations through brand procurement thresholds.Both are deeply tied to international trade,constituting multiple pressures beyond the ISO.The research results indicate that in the current situation,China's textile industry must achieve a strategic leap from"passive compliance"to"active rule-making."The key paths include:building a collaborative ecosystem of"government-industry-university-research-application,"implementing a differentiated leadership strategy,expanding"Global South"cooperation and the dual-drive of"technology+culture,"and effectively transforming the demand for industrial upgrading into international standard competitiveness. In the future,we should deepen empirical research on private standard systems to reveal compliance costs and strategic choices through case studies of enterprises;expand the time span to observe the long-term evolution of standard internationalization capabilities;conduct international comparative research,and use major competitors as references to optimize strategies;explore the implementation mechanism driven by the dual wheels of"technology+culture"to transform advantages such as green manufacturing and intelligent manufacturing into international rule-making discourse power that combines cultural identity and technological connotation.关键词
纺织工业/标准国际化/竞争格局/规则制定/跃升路径Key words
textile industry/standard internationalization/competitive landscape/rule-making/developing path分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
吕宁,周树华,吕巧莉,袁昊旻,于俊,刘芙蓉,叶翔宇..纺织工业标准国际化现状、问题及跃升路径研究[J].丝绸,2026,63(10):1-12,12.基金项目
浙江省市场监督管理局科技项目(ZD2025003) （ZD2025003）
