Abstract
Gambiered Guangdong silk is a traditional handmade silk fabric from the Lingnan region of China.Its uniqueness lies in a specific dyeing and finishing process,which involves repeatedly soaking silk fabric in the juice of the Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.plant and then applying river mud to develop the color,resulting in a fabric with two distinct shades—a shiny black front and a dark brown back.This traditional craftsmanship endows the fabric with excellent wearing properties such as natural antibacterial and antioxidant capabilities,UV protection,and quick moisture absorption and drying,making it renowned as an eco-friendly textile.However,gambiered Guangdong silk requires frequent washing during daily use.Existing research has predominantly focused on its processing techniques or changes in single properties,with few systematic studies investigating the comprehensive wearing performance—including color stability,hand feel,and healthcare functionalities—after multiple launderings.This study takes gambiered Guangdong silk and its uncoated-mud variant red gambiered Guangdong silk as research objects.By comparing the performance evolution of the two after multiple launderings under tap water and detergent conditions,it aims to reveal the effects of washing on the color appearance,comfort properties(hand feel,air permeability,and moisture permeability),and health-related functions(UV protection,antibacterial,and antioxidant properties)of gambiered Guangdong silk.It also analyzes the mechanism of performance changes from the perspective of the interfacial interaction between tannins from Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.and fibers,so as to provide a theoretical basis for the scientific care and performance retention of gambiered Guangdong silk.
To investigate the effects of washing on its properties,this study subjected samples of gambiered Guangdong silk and its non-mud-coated variant,red gambiered Guangdong silk,to 1-25 simulated home laundry cycles using tap water(Group A)and detergent solution(Group B),respectively.After each wash,samples were air-dried and conditioned under standard temperature and humidity.Color and surface morphology were characterized using a colorimeter,scanning electron microscopy(SEM),and energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy(EDS).Hand properties(softness,stiffness,etc.)were tested with a PhabrOmeter system.Comfort properties were assessed via an air permeability tester,moisture permeability cup method,and contact angle measurement.Healthcare functionalities,including UV protection factor(UPF),antioxidant activity(ABTS radical scavenging assay),and antibacterial performance,were quantified.The research systematically compares the performance degradation of gambiered Guangdong silk and red gambiered Guangdong silk under two washing conditions,exploring the protective role of the mud layer on functional durability and explaining macroscopic property changes from a microstructural perspective.Results indicate that after washing,the front side of gambiered Guangdong silk darkened due to enhanced light diffraction from localized fractures in the mud layer,while red gambiered Guangdong silk darkened primarily due to the formation of black precipitates from the complexation of tannins from Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.with iron ions in tap water.Fabric softness increased after washing,and air permeability improved as the surface coating partially degraded.The unidirectional moisture conduction of gambiered Guangdong silk was maintained,with the front side exhibiting a shorter wetting time than the reverse side.The UV protection performance of gambiered Guangdong silk improved with increasing wash cycles,attributed to enhanced UV scattering from the roughened black gel layer.Its antioxidant performance declined slowly(less than 10%after 25 washes),benefiting from the mud layer helping to fix the active components from Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.In contrast,red gambiered Guangdong silk showed significant declines in both UV protection and antioxidant performance due to pigment layer loss.Both fabrics maintained good antibacterial properties after multiple washes.
This study,by comparing the washing effects under different conditions and after multiple cycles,elucidates the reasons for color changes and the patterns of performance evolution in these fabrics.It provides a scientific basis for the targeted care and maintenance of gambiered Guangdong silk,supporting efforts to preserve its unique properties during use.关键词
香云纱/洗涤/颜色变化/吸放湿性/手感/保健Key words
gambiered Guangdong silk/washing/color change/moisture adsorption and desorption/hand feel/healthcare分类
轻工纺织
