烘燥对活性染料染色丝绸的颜色损伤OA北大核心CSTPCD

The color damage caused by sunlight drying,such as fading and yellowing,is the main pain point of silk clothing washing and care,which seriously affects the service life of silk clothing.The reasons for the color damage of silk clothes caused by sun drying are complex,and are directly related to the composition of silk protein and ultraviolet rays in sunlight.However,with the gradual popularization of clothes dryers,the"dry era"has quietly arrived.In urban households in China,the use of clothes dryers to dry clothes will gradually replace the traditional sun drying mode.It should be pointed out that although the drying mechanism technology is mature,the research on the drying theory of clothes is still in its infancy,especially the research on the color damage caused by drying of silk clothes is still blank.Therefore,the research on this part of the content is particularly important,and is expected to provide theoretical support for manufacturers to develop high-end clothing care technology and promote the development of clothes dryers in a better direction. In order to meet the public's demand for silk fabrics and the expectation of optimizing the drying process of clothes dryers,the color change rule of silk fabrics and the identification of dye shedding components in the drying microenvironment of clothes dryers were studied from the point of view of the combination of dyes and fibers.Firstly,a mulberry silk fabric was dyed and dried in different time periods by using Reactive Red 195 in one bath and one step.The results of fabric color test show that the color difference of the dyed silk fabric is significantly different from that of air-dried fabrics after different drying cycles,and increases with the increase of drying cycles.Secondly,to study the components of dye shed during drying,the dyes shed during drying were collected and eluted with deionized water for reverse high performance liquid chromatography(RP-HPLC)and nuclear hydrogen magnetic resonance spectroscopy(H-NMR).The results showed that only the final product of dye hydrolysis was detected in the eluent of stained samples,which was different from the reaction of Reactive Red 195 which produced three intermediate products and one final product.It can be inferred that the dyes will be hydrolyzed and adsorbed on the fiber surface and pores during dyeing or soap washing,and the hydrolyzed dyes that do not react with the fibers will fall off from the fibers during drying,which is one of the main reasons for the color change of silk fabrics during drying. At present,only the silk fabrics dyed with Reactive Red 195 have been studied in relation to drying,and there are few types of dyes,and no studies have been carried out on all types of dyes.Therefore,the problem of drying damage of dyed silk fabrics prepared with reactive dyes is not universal.