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传统套鞋的形制功能考析及造物思想释读OA北大核心CSTPCD

Textual research and analysis of the shape and function of traditional overshoes and their creation concept

中文摘要英文摘要

"套鞋"是中国传统鞋履中实用与审美相结合的功能性样式,它们与人类的生产生活共生共存.本文以收藏家钟漫天先生提供的典型"套鞋"标本为主要研究模本,同时结合史料,针对性地对中国传统套鞋结构形制及其功能进行研究,并在其基础上对传统套鞋的造物思想进行探讨;强调考物与文献相结合而重考物的方法,对实物标本一手资料进行系统的信息采集,通过文献考证和实物结构的比较研究,力求展现中国传统套鞋的文化力量和个性风韵,为多元一体的中华文化特质提供一个生动的鞋履范式.

"Overshoes"are a functional style of traditional Chinese shoes that combine utility and aesthetics.They are designed to protect fabric shoes from dirt and to prevent people from slipping when walking.They coexist with human production and life.From a material point of view,traditional overshoes are directly consumable items of folklore.From the intangible point of view,they are cultural folklore that combines human wisdom and craftsmanship.Therefore,the folk culture of traditional overshoes has irreplaceable characteristics and demonstrates the Chinese cultural trait of"pluralistic integration". This paper takes the representative specimens of"overshoes"provided by the collector Mr.Zhong Mantian as the main research model.At the same time,the study combines historical records.In particular,it focuses on the form and function of traditional Chinese overshoes.On this basis,the article explores the concept of the creation of traditional overshoes.It emphasizes the combination of specimens and documents.Moreover,it systematically collects primary research data on physical specimens.Through the comparative study of documentary evidence and the structure of physical specimens,five conclusions are drawn.First,the degree of focus on functionality of traditional Chinese overshoes is much greater than the decorative attributes,and their shapes are extremely closely related to the materials from which they are made,presenting a diversified and personalized situation.Second,the basic guiding principle in the design of traditional overshoes is to serve the productive life of people.The basic need is for people to feel comfort and convenience on their feet when they wear shoes.Third,when people choose the materials for traditional overshoes and design their shapes,the goals are to respect nature and make the best use of them.At the same time,these designs should be able to adapt to changes in the natural environment,ceremonial rules and ethnic integration,showing strong adaptability and inclusiveness.Fourth,influenced by the living conditions in a particular historical period,when people think about designing the functional performance of traditional overshoes,their design guideline is to prolong the life of the shoes.People would use all kinds of craftsmanship to transform and innovate the overshoes,so that the concept of"saving things and using them sparingly"would be consistent with their actions.Fifth,the shape of traditional overshoes contains the moral culture of Chinese shoes.The unique meanings of"the bridge of the nose on the shoes"and"ribbon embedded in the shoes"have spiritually educated people's code of conduct and ethics.Meanwhile,they also convey a positive outlook on life and values. The research method of using physical specimens as the basic data in this paper provides high supplementary value for the study of traditional Chinese overshoes.As an actual material,"overshoes"carry and continue the mainstream cultural values of traditional Chinese culture.They also vividly illustrate the nature of Chinese costumes,namely"pluralistic integration".Nowadays,people are faithfully inheriting and carrying forward the excellent traditional Chinese culture,trying to enhance the national cultural soft power and Chinese cultural influence.In this context,the study of traditional overshoes is of high value and heritage significance.It also provides important reference and guidance for the development of related design products at present.

魏莉;刘纬桢

中央民族大学美术学院,北京 100081

轻工业

传统套鞋鞋履形制功能鞋制鞋工艺造物思想标本研究

traditional overshoesthe shapes of shoesfunctional shoesshoe-making processthe concept of creationspecimen study

《丝绸》 2024 (004)

137-148 / 12

中央民族大学混合式教学改革项目(XJ-HHJG2207)

10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2024.04.016

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