香云纱真丝织物抗紫外线性能研究进展OA北大核心CSTPCD

As an important part of national intangible cultural heritage in China,gambiered Guangdong gauze is the only silk fabric in the world that is dyed with pure plant dyes.With unique advantages such as coolness and comfort,environmental protection,antibiosis and deodorization,sun-resistance and water resistance,and certain health benefits for the skin,it is known as"soft gold".However,it relies heavily on artificial and natural environments for dyeing and finishing.Currently,most research mainly focuses on the dyeing ingredients of Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour and river mud.There is little research on its update of dyeing modes,further improvement in performance of wearing,and design innovation.In recent years,due to the extensive use of substances such as chlorofluorocarbons(CFCs),carbon tetrachloride(CC14),and methane(CH4),the destruction of the ozone layer has been accelerated.This has led to a significant increase in ultraviolet radiation reaching the ground,endangering the ecological environment and the survival of humans and other organisms.The energy of solar radiation is mainly concentrated in visible light,infrared and ultraviolet regions.Excessive and strong ultraviolet radiation can easily cause sunstroke,skin burns,basal cell carcinoma of the skin and other diseases.But as silk is precisely composed of a large amount of protein fibers,it is prone to yellowing,aging,and even pulverization after UV radiation,which affects the beauty and performance of fabrics.Therefore,research on the UV resistance of silk fabrics is imminent. This article,starting with the special dyeing and finishing technique of gambiered Guangdong gauze,summarized the historical origins,research value,and the principle that its UV resistance is superior to other silk fabrics.Its dyeing and finishing process,a pure handmade technique that combines plant dyeing(Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour)and mineral dyeing(river mud),is completed through multiple complex processes of"thrice steaming,nine times of boiling,and eighteen times of drying",mainly including preparation of Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour extract,dyeing,mud applying and washing,sun drying,and gauze collecting.Compared to other silk fabrics,the special dyeing and finishing process endows it with excellent UV resistance and antibacterial properties.Secondly,the reasons why gambiered Guangdong gauze has better UV resistance than other silk fabrics were summarized.There are mainly two aspects:firstly,during the dyeing process,the tannin components in the Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour extract have excellent UV absorption ability,which improves the UV resistance of the fabric;secondly,in the mud applying process,under the action of tannin components,metal ions,humus,fulvic acid and other substances in the river mud undergo complex reactions with protein fibers,forming a black coating layer on the surface,which increases the thickness of the fabric and changes its absorption spectrum.This allows the fabric coating to absorb ultraviolet and visible light,improving the fabric's UV resistance.However,this dyeing and finishing technique is faced with the problems of traditional process,high dependence on manual labor,and low production efficiency which leads to low industrialization rate of the industry.At the same time,due to its monotonous colors and outdated patterns,the main market of gambiered Guangdong gauze is concentrated in the middle-aged and elderly population,while there is low popularity and acceptance among the young generation.Thirdly,this article also studied the anti-UV modification and finishing of ordinary silk fabrics.Most of the research mainly characterizes the anti-UV performance with UPF value,UVA and UVB transmittance.And the current after-treatment methods for improving the anti-UV performance of silk fabrics mainly include adding organic UV absorbents,inorganic UV reflection agents,and natural pigment extracts.Adding UV absorbents enhances the effect by absorbing UV rays through an anti UV coating.Adding UV reflection agent enhances the effect by enhancing the ability to reflect UV rays.In the context of promoting green and environmentally friendly development,a large number of studies have attempted and proven the role of natural pigment extracts in improving the UV resistance of textiles.Finally,the article summarized the existing problems and improvement directions in the gambiered Guangdong gauze industry.In response to existing problems,future research in this industry can mainly be improved in five aspects.Firstly,it is necessary to try to break through the limitations of natural environment and geographical conditions,reduce the manual process of dyeing and finishing,and lower costs.Secondly,it is necessary to establish the optimal process conditions and standards for gambiered Guangdong gauze's dyeing and finishing through experiments,in order to maximize the dyeing rate,save time and economic costs.Thirdly,it is necessary to attempt to artificially synthesize black mud by studying the special components of river mud so as to reduce dependence on natural conditions.Fourthly,it is necessary to accelerate the application of intelligent technology in its dyeing,finishing,and production processes,and improve production efficiency,so as to promote the industrialization development of the industry.Fifthly,for future industry design innovation,it is necessary to pay more attention to the consumer aesthetics of the young group of Generation Z,try to combine with digital printing and other technologies,develop more products with rich colors and novel patterns,and open up a broader young market,so as to promote the development of the gambiered Guangdong gauze industry towards high comfort,multifunctionality,green and low-carbon,personality and diversity. The induction and summary of the special dyeing and finishing process and the principle of UV resistance of gambiered Guangdong gauze,and ordinary silk fabrics'UV resistant finishing is beneficial for the inheritance and development of natural plant-dyed fabrics and national intangible cultural heritage,and also provides reference for the further improvement of the anti-UV performance of gambiered Guangdong gauze and other fabrics.Based on the carbon peaking and carbon neutrality goals and industry development trends,research can be conducted on the role of natural pigment extracts in improving the functions of other silk fabrics and textiles in the future from the perspective of gambiered Guangdong gauze dyeing and finishing technology,so as to promote the green and sustainable development of the industry.