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基于索绪尔符号学视域下的彝族羊角纹样研究OA北大核心CSTPCD

A study of Yi horn patterns from the perspective of Saussure's semiotics

中文摘要英文摘要

彝族羊角纹样是彝族纹样不可或缺的一部分,具有强烈的"纹样符号"属性.本文在索绪尔符号学视域下,采取相关文献与实物互证的方法,通过考证彝族羊角纹样形状的历史演变、归纳其组织结构特征、总结色彩运用规律,进而探究彝族羊角纹样发展成因及文化脉络.研究发现:彝族羊角纹样具有形状上均衡协调、结构适势而为和色彩对立统一的外在能指特征;其所指层面则表明彝族羊角纹样是彝族财富和吉祥的象征,不仅承载彝族羊图腾崇拜的民风民俗,还蕴含了深层次的万物雌雄观哲学思想.

The Yi horn pattern,an indispensable part of the Yi pattern,has a strong attribute of"pattern symbol"and is widely used in the form of embroidery patterns in the Yi costumes.It is a heavy historical precipitation of the Yi sheep culture.Nowadays,there are few studies on Yi horn patterns in the academic circles,and they are incorporated in the comprehensive field of Yi culture research and Yi dress research.There is a lack of systematic combing and summarization,and a dearth of in-depth excavation of the level of cultural connotation. From the perspective of Saussure's semiotics,this paper adopted the method of corroboration between relevant literature and physical objects,and then explored the causes and cultural context of the development of Yi sheep's horn patterns by examining the historical evolution of the shape of the Yi sheep's horn pattern,summarizing its organizational structure features,and the rules of color application.Two major conclusions are drawn.Firstly,at the signifier level,the Yi sheep's horn pattern presents abstract and geometric symbolic features and balanced and unified formal characteristics,and the basic shape composition is the interdependent and opposite whirlwind image composed of two whirlwind images.After the evolution,on the basis of maintaining the basic features,many combinations of deformations appeared,which were mostly used in combination with ferns and other botanical motifs,reflecting the Yi people's inheritance and innovation of this cultural symbol.In the layout and placement of its independent pattern,the pattern form and the Yi costume structure fit each other;its continuous patterns are mostly organized in a two-way organization to highlight the sense of order and solemnity;the use of color and the whole show the characteristics of unity of opposition.Secondly,at the level of the signified of the Yi horn pattern,the Yi people live in the context of the sheep-based animal husbandry mode of production,and the Yi horn pattern is regarded as a symbol of a carefree,peaceful and well-being life,and carries the Yi people's pursuit of wealth and good fortune.At the same time,the Yi horn pattern plays an important role in the Yi rituals and rules and system culture,confirming the original totem worship of the Yi people,and that the sheep also plays a fair and just symbol in the legal system of the Yi ethnic group.Finally,the shape and structure of the Yi horn pattern contain the traditional concept of creation of the Yi ethnic group,and its symmetrical structure and double helix shape are symbolic expression of the male and female concept of the Yi ethnic group. This paper analyzes the Yi ethnic group's horn patterns through Saussure's semiotics,and summarizes the development,evolution and characteristics of its shape structure,so as to study the deep cultural connotation,provide practical examples for the study of Yi ethnic group's horn patterns,and contribute to promoting Yi culture.

郑崇辛;王群山

北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029

轻工业

彝族羊角纹样索绪尔符号学形状结构色彩文化

the Yi ethnic grouphorn patternSaussure's semioticsshapestructurecolorculture

《丝绸》 2024 (007)

118-124 / 7

10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2024.07.013

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