丝绸2024，Vol.61Issue(7)：125-132,8.DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2024.07.014
宋代公服金革带的形制及多元文化内涵研究
Research on the form and multicultural connotation of the golden leather belt in the Song Dynasty
摘要
Abstract
The official uniform of the Song Dynasty stands out for its simplicity,with the golden leather belt around the waist being its most distinctive feature and an important indicator for distinguishing official ranks.The golden leather belt not only possesses unique stylistic characteristics,but also embodies diverse cultural connotations,which helps deepen people's understanding and recognition of the clothing style and cultural phenomena of the Song Dynasty. This article delves into the golden leather belt in the official uniform of the Song Dynasty through a combination of excavated artifacts,images,and ancient literary records.The research reveals that the golden leather belt,as an essential accessory for officials,is elongated in shape and adorned with gold buckles and tailpieces at both ends,with the belt styles being double-buckle or single-buckle.The belt plate,serving as the core component,varies in shape,arrangement,pattern,and weight.There are two types of belt plate arrangements:a combination of round and square plates and a solely tight arrangement of square plates.Patterns on the belt plates,such as ball-and-road patterns,imperial fairy flower patterns,and lychee patterns,not only reflect the noble status of officials but also represent the aesthetic tastes and cultural characteristics of the Song society.The research further discovers that the imperial fairy flower pattern is slightly superior to the lychee pattern,and the lychee pattern is not a simplified version of the imperial fairy flower pattern.The weight difference in patterns subtly reflects the status of officials.Therefore,the golden leather belt is closely related to the court etiquette of the Song Dynasty,becoming a symbol of the noble status of high-ranking officials.In addition,the uniqueness of the stylistic features of the golden leather belt in the Song Dynasty is profoundly influenced by foreign multiculturalism.Structurally,the fusion of the utilitarian concept of northern nomadic peoples and the Confucian value of"priority in rank"transformed the leather belt from a hanging tool to a symbol of status and rank.Technologically,the robust and unpretentious metalworking skills of Western Asia blended with the aesthetic tastes influenced by Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty,jointly creating vivid and plain gold belt plates.In terms of patterns,the decorative culture of human-lion fighting motifs in Sassanian style skillfully fused with the harmonious concept of"harmony between man and nature"in Chinese culture,forming a harmonious lion pattern.In conclusion,the stylistic features of the golden leather belt in the Song Dynasty not only reflect the status of officials but also serve as an important example of the integration of social styles and multiculturalism in the Song Dynasty. In future research,we will continue to delve deeper into the etiquette and cultural connotations of leather belts made of other materials in the Song Dynasty,aiming to more comprehensively reveal the richness and diversity of the belt system and cultural connotations of the Song Dynasty.We strive to further promote the inheritance and promotion of ancient Chinese culture.关键词
宋代公服/金革带/带銙/形制/礼仪文化/多元文化Key words
Song Dynasty official uniforms/gold leather belt/belt plates/form/etiquette culture/multiculturalism分类
轻工纺织引用本文复制引用
季晓芬,陈斯雅,蔡丽玲..宋代公服金革带的形制及多元文化内涵研究[J].丝绸,2024,61(7):125-132,8.基金项目
浙江省哲学社会科学规划项目(24NDJC170YB) （24NDJC170YB）
浙江理工大学科研基金启动项目(23196023-Y) （23196023-Y）
